The Apothecary Diaries - Maomao

Episode 7 “A Poisoned Party”

Photography by @hakuoro917

“It’s said ‘Love has the power to make a woman more beautiful.’

I wonder what sort of medicine that would make?”

Maomao is one of the strongest female leads anime has seen this decade, and seeing her Garden Party outfit in promotional pictures sparked my desire to start the process on this beautiful, culturally-inspired design. Everything we’ve learned through the end of season 1 drove me to make this cosplay as eye-catching as I knew how, while also staying as true to both the anime and the culture it comes from.

I’m most proud of the custom rhinestone template I made to feature the blue rose from later episodes and the 82 hand-folded pleats in the 裙 (“qun” or skirt).

The Build

This costume was constructed in 2024 between January and June. It debuted and went on to win Best in Show at Anime Festival Orlando’s craftsmanship cosplay contest that year. This rendition of Maomao’s garden party outfit features a fully lined bodice to protect the metallic brocade from sweat & improve the armhole seam durability, hidden storyline motifs through rhinestone applique design, and interior costume rigging for stability. This was the first costume I made after a 9-year break from cosplay and general self-sewing. Dedicated to the character that I grew so quickly passionate about that it reignited my love for sewing, this costume serves as my love story to cosplaying for the “right reasons” – for yourself.

Using Yaya Han’s McCalls hanfu pattern as a base for the beizi (褙子)-inspired blouse, I modified the chest to closer resemble Maomao’s top inspired by the cut of garments from China’s Song Dynasty. In lieu of perfect screen accuracy, I chose patterned brocades for several pieces. In doing this, I wanted this look for Maomao to be a little “dressier” and expensive looking because, according to another lady-in-waiting, dressing well “reflects on [their] lady.” Blue rose patterns can be seen in the collar – a callout to the later episodes of The Apothecary Diaries’ first season.

There are 86 hand-folded and under-stitched pleats, ranging from a quarter to three inches making up the upper portion of the baidiequn (百迭裙)- inspired skirt. The fragile dupioni is protected with French seams and double-folded hems throughout. For ease of laundering, wearing, and storage, the ties were separated into two pieces: a zippered, thicker belt and a long, hand-tied sash. The inside of the pink belt hides a permanent pocket to ensure the three hair pin gifts are securely and neatly situated. The peony seen on the waist comes from my silk bridal bouquet from 2022, and is attached with one large snap.

The blue sash is double roll hemmed by hand around its 23-foot perimeter and secured with snaps at the inner elbow for ease of wear during busier conventions and location shoots. The earrings are also made by me using 3D resin-printing and simple jewelry wire-wrapping. The hairpins were 3D printed by a friend using a purchased model, and I experienced working with prints for the first time.

I spent hours researching hanfu-appropriate hairstyles and testing them on a wig to decide how to best translate Maomao’s hair. I settled on braided buns that resemble cat ears as a callout to Maomao’s namesake. There are at least 8 extra rows of wefts sewn into the wig to fill it out and hide the elastic when parted. I made her signature rose hairpins using craft barrette clips, plastic rose baubles, and E6000.

Gyokuyou & Lihaku hairpins and the Necklace STLs were purchased from “SomethingWorkshop” on Cults 3D.
Jinshi’s Hairpin STL was purchased from MissMessyMia